Monday, March 25, 2013

Autumn in Japan

After idyllic beach vacations and spending time with Tim in October, fall quickly ushered in cool temperatures during November.  With Tim still out to sea, I took full advantage of autumnal festivities around Japan with a few birthday celebrations thrown in.

KYOTO
My dear friend Lauren had a visitor from the good ol' US of A during the first of the month.  Wanting to show her Japan, Lauren planned a weekend trip to Kyoto and asked Charlotte and I to tag along.   This was my first foray into Kyoto and I was anxious to visit the ancient city, especially in fall.  With the justification as a birthday vacation for Charlotte and myself, we quickly signed on!  

Kyoto, founded in 794, was the capital for peace and tranquility.  Once the political capital of Japan (until 1868), Kyoto still embodies historic prestige and ranks as one of Japan's most interesting and culturally significant cities.  

Birthday drink on the Shinkansen (Bullet train)



Ginkaku-ji:  The Silver Pavilion






Me, Charlotte, Lauren, Kristen








Tossing a coin into the pond








The Philosopher's Walk
Named for Philosophy Professor Nishida Kitaro (1870-1945), who used the area for his daily constitutional, the path along the canal at the base of the Higashiyama mountains is lined by Sakura (cherry blossoms).  Although we visited in the wrong season for sakura, we enjoyed the scenic, fall landscape.  



philosophizing 

As a native Britt, Charlotte is a natural philosopher, most certainly imbibing erudite qualities near to her at Oxbridge. 






Rokuon-ji Temple & Kinkaku (The Golden Pavilion)
Kinkaku was built in the 1220s as the villa of Kintsune Saionji.  Once the site of a Zen temple, Kinkaku and the gardens are all that remain. 

Kinkaku consists of three types of architecture:
1. Shinden-zukuri: palace-style named Ho-sui-in
2. Buke-zukuri: style of the samurai house called Cho-on-do
3. Karayo: Zen temple style called Kukkyo-cho

Both the second and third floor are covered in gold-leaf Japanese lacquer.  A Chinese phoenix adorns the top, resting on thatched shingles.  





Ryoanji Temple










The Hojo Garden


Gion: Kyoto's Ancient Geisha District
Among the winding, mysterious streets of Gion (one of four geisha districts in Kyoto), exists a fascinating visual historic tour of Japan.  This area is famous for its upscale teahouses, inns and restaurants which still employee geisha.  These female entertainers are distinguished in the Japanese traditional arts and prefer the term geiko (child of the arts) to geisha.  Meiko, essentially geishas-in-training, live in boarding houses, rejecting a modern life for the distinguished world of a geisha.  

Strolling about Gion with our tour guide, we were able to distinguish homes for geisha as well as catch a glimpse of a geisha heading out for work.  Unfortunately, we were unable to enter any of the establishments boasting geisha as they are incredibly expensive.   

The signs show the names of the geisha / meiko living in this home.  


Spotted: Geisha heading to work!  I felt like paparazzi.  They prefer not to have their pictures taken; but, if you are polite, it is somewhat ok.  


Tour of Gion & Japanese Traditional Arts

Gagaku (Court Music)
Dating back to ancient China, the word literally means "elegant music."  It is also encompasses traditional dancing, singing as well as instrument music.





Kado (Flower Arrangement) & Koto (Japanese Harp)



Bunraku (Puppet Play)



Kyomai (Kyoto Style Dance)



Chado (Tea Ceremony)






We stumbled upon this sign as we were walking through Kyoto.  Fall was in the air!  Beaujolais Neuveau was realeased on Nov. 15 in 2012 and this bar had it!






SOBA MAKING TOUR
The MWR (Morale, Welfare, Recreation) office on base offers tours through Japan and Asia.  We decided to try the soba (buckwheat noodles) making tour.  Having returned home from Kyoto on Sunday night, I am not sure what compelled us to take a tour the next morning.  But we all met on base for our four hour bus ride.  



Lauren, Kristen, Leslie



















After about 30 minutes of soba making and about 15 minutes of cooking, we had lunch!  Now I must admit that I am not the biggest soba fan to begin with... and these certainly did nothing to alter my opinion.  


On our way home, we stopped at a two temples.  

I'm fired.  I don't remember the name of this place.  


This one's for you Lisa!  That was a BIG foot!





Daruma-ji
Founded in 1697 in Takasaki, Daruma-ji temple is based on Daruma, the father of Zen buddhism.   



About 80% of Daruma dolls are produced in Takasaki.  They are a symbol of perseverance and the new year.  When you purchase the doll, the eyes are white.  After making a wish, you color in one eye; after the wish comes true, you color in the second eye.  


Kiku-no-hana (chrysanthemum) has long been cherished in Asia.  Brought to Japan in the 8th century, Japanese royalty believed the flower had the ability to prolong life.  In the 12th century, the kiku was adopted as the emblem of the royal family with the 16 pedaled kiku becoming the official emblem in the 18th century.  Today, the kiku is also the flower of November.  










BIRTHDAY CELEBRATIONS
I am fortunate to have an exceptional family of friends in Japan.  I had several birthday celebrations this November.  

Tokyo
On my actual birthday, I went to Tokyo with my friends Rachel, Shiho and Jennifer.  First, we got our nails done and then headed out for a fantastic dinner.


Jinnan Ken
Shiho, per usual, chose the perfect restaurant for dinner.  Jinnan Ken, in Tokyo's Shibuya neighborhood, is situated on the rooftop of a nine story building.  We had sukiyaki (a dish prepared in a hot broth in a nabemono hot pot) and all you can drink champagne.  


Shiho serving the sukiyaki

the view

Shiho, Jennifer and me





my Japanese birthday card

Me, Jennifer, Shiho, Rachel



HON ATSUGI LADIES
The three older ladies that I teach on Wednesdays took me out to dinner for my birthday.

salad and fried chicken

tempura (fried) vegetables and soba noodles

sukiyaki, soba, and raw fish

green tea ice cream

Kazuko, Katsuyo, me, Kazuko

Kazuko prepared this arrangement in bamboo for my birthday.

Flowers from my other student, Satomi.


November was a busy and wonderful month filled with delicious food and fantastic friends!